Tailgate / Platform
I have been investigating many different methods & materials to build the drop down platform. I haven’t decided which way to go yet, but I do know which way other camper manufacturers construct their drop down platforms.
First off, as you’d expect, most of them use aluminium. As far as the construction goes, this is usually an outside box frame with 4 or 5 internal supports, all made from 40mm aluminium box tube. Cover the frame with aluminium sheeting (tread plate or normal) at around 3mm thick, to act as the floor, you then have a sturdy platform to walk on. This seems like the common construction method and if you didn’t want to spend too much time figuring out the various load spans & ratings of other materials, I would recommend going with this approach.
Platform Box Frame [+]
However, if you wanted to dig a little deeper into the engineering sides of things, I think there may be some improvements to be made here. According to my rough calculations, a box frame & sheet described as above would weigh around 35kg. That’s not terribly heavy, but if you were planning to manually lower & raise the platform yourself (like I am), plus have a storage box attached to the back, you may start to wonder whether you’ll need assistance from another person just to lower or raise it (not ideal in my opinion!).
Composite Panels [+]
The box frame and aluminum sheet would both weigh around 15kg+ each. So I’ve looked at alternative flooring materials to compare the weight and performance (e.g. load spans) to that of aluminium sheet. Composite materials are of course available (at a price) but do offer many advantages (i.e. thermal breaks, etc). Some of the sheet/panels I’ve researched had high enough load ratings that you wouldn’t even need as much support underneath, which would save us considerable weight in the box frame itself also.
Here are a few of the flooring panels I’ve come across so far:
I’m currently still reviewing viable options & costs for the platform flooring material. If anyone has experience in this area or ideas that could help with the design & construction of this platform, please leave a comment!
Having more or less decided to stick to my 4th revision design from my previous post, here are some pictures of my first attempt at the tube frame design of the camper:
Cantilevered frame over dual cab; external access to storage
Bench tops and seating
Drivers side storage access
The frame is made from 25 x 25 x 1.6mm aluminium tube and the tube connectors are from Flexliner’s large range of various multi-direction/angle connectors.
You may note from the pictures, most of the connectors are black, these are normal nylon connectors whereas the green and red connectors would be the steel core & steel core with thread, respectively. I was thinking the threaded connectors (designed for feet, castors & the like) could possibly make for a good fastening point with the floor. For the floor I was thinking of 12mm marine plywood.
Drop Down Tailgate / Platform
Suspended Tailgate / Platform [+]
Unfortunately I have doubts whether I can use this type of framing system for the drop down tailgate/platform. The loads it would see could be up to 300kg (3 or 4 people) and without proper support underneath (as it will be suspended by cables) the frame would simply cave in on itself. I may need to look into a stronger (perhaps welded?) solution for this.
One thing that’s been on my mind for awhile is the Qubelok tubing which is only 1.2mm thick. We’re going to have some pretty decent stress loads on this frame with the drop down tailgate & the fold-over bed hinges, etc, which was always a bit of a concern for me.
On a visit to my local Aluminium supplier Aluminium Express, I noticed they also sold Qubelok connectors and something else there that caught my attention. They looked like extra long tube connectors and were more like nylon than plastic. I enquired about them and found that they are actually a different type of tube connector altogether and made by Flexliner!
Flexliner Connectors [+]
tube connectors are longer and made for 25 x 25 x 1.6mm tubing which is a standard size, more readily available and cheaper than most Qubelok suppliers! They are made from a stiff (but flexible) nylon and are much more vibration & stress proof than Qubelok which can snap on corrugations, etc. They even have welded steel-core versions available for applications requiring a bit more compressive strength (click the photo to expand).
For me, this was an amazing & timely find that’ll provide that extra bit of security knowing the frame will be that little bit stronger being 1.6mm instead of 1.2mm.
As you would guess the connectors are a little bit more expensive. Qubelok connectors are around $2.50 each whereas these Flexliner ones are around $4~ each but I think it’s every bit worth it. Another big advantage is designing the frame in 25mm tube sections instead of 25.4mm!
Stay tuned for my tube frame designs coming soon…
What are some aluminium framing methods?
During my research into ‘weldless’ aluminium framing methods I came across many techniques and products that could be used to build a camper. Some of which I have mentioned before but will repeat for completeness.
8020 Framing System
The most impressive would be the 8020 framing system which is basically extruded aluminium profiles that through the use of various fastening methods can be joined together to form a strong, vibration proof join in many different angles. The system is available from a few different suppliers under a few different names but they are essentially the same concept.
- Quick to assemble
- Easy to use
- Strong and Vibration Proof
- Weight could be a factor, they would definitely weigh more than hollow square tubing
Gussets and Rivets
Gussets & Rivets [+]
Another method was that used on air plane fuselages. This uses mainly rivets and gussets to join tubing together. It’s an effective method of fabrication and relatively easy for the DIYer. This would probably be the cheapest method of fabricating an aluminium camper frame.
- Cheapest method I’ve found
- Only basic tools needed
- The gussets may be in the way when installing walls, bench tops and cupboard doors.
- Extra care/planning would be needed to ensure you don’t have gussets in the way of moving parts or where a nice flush finish is required.
Qubelok / Connect-It [+]
The easiest method I’ve come across so far is something called Qubelok
or Connect-It depending on local suppliers. It’s a framing system that uses plastic connectors that slot into 25.4mm (1″) tubing. It is surprisingly strong, especially when building in cube-like structures. The plastic connectors are around $2 each and are available from 3 to 6 way connectors.
- Fairly cheap connectors
- Easy to build (just hammer it together)
- The Qubelok extruded tubing is available with an offset lip so you can mount bench tops or glass ‘flush’ within the frame (pretty cool actually)
- The aluminium tubing isn’t really a standard size and the anodized finish makes the price of tubing a little higher than you’d expect. Especially the lipped tubing.
A little more on these tube connectors
I wondered whether these plastic connectors would be strong enough for building a camper. Especially one like the Wedgetail or similar with the fold over lid.
Qubelok 4×4 Storage [+]
The Qubelok/Connect-It system is actually really popular in the 4x4ing and touring communities. They use them a lot to make slide out drawers and shelving for their camping and 4×4 equipment (fridges, cooking, winch gear, etc).
I’ve heard of a few reports though where these plastic connectors will crack over corrugations or if you put too much weight on them, which gave me a few concerns.
I pondered over this and thought that as long as you didn’t overly stress any particular join and if you reinforced some of the joins with gussets it may be the best of both worlds. (E.g. Easy to build & still strong)
So that’s where I’ve started. I would design a Wedgetail style camper out of Qubelok/Connect-It components and where I had to reinforce it I would use gussets.
On to the design!